My Darjeeling Diaries...

You know what, what you think is not what you always get. I am not talking about My destination right now but about that 2 hour flight from Delhi to Bagdogra. Glued to the window during the flight with the hope to catch a glimpse of The Majestic Mt. Everest only to know that the pilot had taken a different route. Villain that he must be :(

Anyways!! It was time to land and the excitement was at all time high as I was going to begin my journey through North Eastern Himalayan range. Bagdogra is a fairly small airport and doesn't let you waste much time. The luggage arrived in no time and without much ado, I hopped onto a taxi and headed to Darjeeling.

Himalyan Railway

The journey was a complete nostalgia remembering all the Bollywood movies that have been pictured here. Darjeeling and Bollywood have a history dating back to 1949 with the most recent in 2014. Of course, the most popular "Mere sapno ki raani kab aayegi" song from movie Aradhana which must have induced ranjha in god knows how many men. I continued to enjoy my joy ride going through the winds, the tea plantations and remembering all those romantic movies and songs. And while I was lost in thoughts, the taxi came to a halt and whoaaaaa... This actually "completed" my ride. It was the toy train my taxi was waiting for. I was gleeing with joy. I could sense that this trip was going to surprise me every now and then.

Darjeeling Tea Gardens

Darjeeling is meant to be experienced. There is a lot even in the hustle bustle of this hill town. Strolling through the markets, tasting tea at local tea shops, and interacting with travelers from around the world are a few things that one could do in addition to the usual tourist spots. Evening are even more fun when all the cafes around are buzzing with peppy music and people. Just like most of Himalayan destinations in India, Darjeeling too attracts huge number of tourists, but what makes it different from other destinations is the culture, warmth, and welcoming people and especially the tea. Not just the usual ones... There are some cafes which serve freshly brewed teas as well. 

Train Ride and some gorgeous views

When in Darjeeling, there is something more special one ought to do there. i.e a joy ride in toy train (yes the one that made me glee). The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway runs between Darjeeling and Kurseong with its head quarters in Kurseong. This narrow gauge railway (built in 1881 when Britishers ruled India and is handled by British-built steam engine) is also listed as the Mountain Railways of India World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The train route overlooks the beautiful tea gardens, and I was amazed by the breathtaking views of The Himalayas. Despite being one of the oldest railways, these are still retained in remarkable condition.

Tea Processing in Factory

Something that was still missing to all this and what I love doing, engaging with the locals to feel the culture. So, I intentionally planned a stay with a local family where an extremely hospitable lady, also a worker at a tea estate, welcomed me with a smiling face and happiness. The lady very cordially introduced me to everyone in family. It was actually an overwhelming experience. We all sat for a cup of tea from freshly plucked leaves and talked for hours despite the language differences. The warm welcome, simplicity, some basic gestures muddled with the aroma of the tea is something I long for in the city. All of this made me feel extremely comfortable and at home. The feeling cannot really be put in words. Their urge to do whatever it takes to give the best possible experience to their visitors is something I can't stop admiring ever. The lady also took me for a hike in the tea plantation area to show the process of tea making, from planting to plucking and then processing in the factory. After a tiring day hiking in the tea gardens, she again served me hot cups of tea followed by delicious fresh and healthy home cooked dinner. The family sat with me for dinner and talked about culture, cuisine, people and how they survive in those harsh circumstances. 

Living with locals is a great way of bonding with and knowing the place, culture and being pampered with some true local cuisine, and also helps them to make some pennies. My advise to stay with locals would be to every traveler with similar liking. The crowd is for the people who come to visit the place, those who want to experience find method to the madness. 

Goodbye Selfie with my host at homestay

While bidding Goodbye the next morning, the host lady asked me, what would I miss the most about this trip?. I smiled and answered... The Tea and The Talks :)

Have you been to Darjeeling??If yes, 

Share your experience.

If planning to go any sooner, 

Post your queries in comments below.

Splendid Sandakphu

Sometimes Journeys are more memorable than the destination and this was one such drive for me. Right after booking my tickets, I had very less time in my hand for planning my North East trip. I asked people on forums what all I must add in my itinerary. When I asked about Sandakphu, people said Sandakphu is a gorgeous 6-7 days trek and is a must do (which indeed it is) but plan a separate trip. When I heard the word gorgeous, it clicked me. When it comes to travel, I am very greedy person. I crave to see anything and everything as soon as possible. So I just kept on exploring options over internet and then something caught my eyes.

Sandakphu-Phalut Route

I read about Manebhanjyang Vintage Land rover Association of Singalila National Park (in Darjeeling), having the UK’s biggest collection of classic 4x4 Land Rovers, with the vintage Land rovers being driven on Manebhanjyang to Sandakphu route. There it was, Sandakphu ticked in this trip itself. (Eyes sparkling)

Vintage Landrover

To embrace this new experience, I traveled from Darjeeling to Manebhanjyang on an early morning, booked a Land rover and jumped in the old iron for an exciting 31km rash drive in Singalila National Park. The coolest thing about Manebhanjyang Land rovers is that they are kept original. They don’t have any valid papers. These fossil machines are blast to drive on those bumpy graveled roads. 

Graveled Roads

No power windows, no power brakes, no air conditioning. In short, no modern amenities we are used to in our modern vehicles now. Old Land rovers are meant to be truly driven. They are not fast, they are not super comfortable but they certainly are damn cool. These are lovely decades old machines that will last for many generations to come.

Landscapes in Singalila

Singalila was a Sikkim Forest. In 1882 British Government brought these forests on lease from the Sikkimese Raja. And later on after Independence, this forest became the part of Darjeeling District (West Bengal). In 1992, Wildlife Forest Department declared it as the National Park and named it as “Singalila National Park”. For trekking in Singalila National Park, It is a must for trekkers to be accompanied by registered guides of Wildlife Department. This national park is very close to India-Nepal border.  While on this route, the roads take you across the border multiple times where in military is deputed at every check-post to ensure safety of tourists and the peace at borders.

Military Check-post

This national park is home of some rarest exotic animal life. Many of them are high altitude animals (mostly found in Himalayas) and are endangered ones such as Red Panda (one of favorites). The chance of sighting one is quite rare as there are very few of them. I was not lucky enough to see even one of them. The park houses rich flora and fauna. During the drive, rhododendron was at full bloom and mountains were studded with red flower buckets.

Blooming Rhododendrons

Besides all, Sandakphu-Phalut route offers breathtaking panoramic view of the gigantic Eastern Himalayas from Nepal to Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, up-till Bhutan, especially the Everest and Kanchenjunga. Sandakphu (11,909 ft) and Phalut (11,811 ft) are the two highest peaks of Singalila range. 

View of Himalayas from Sandakphu

The four famous mountains which are above 8000 mts. beside (K-2) are viewed from Sandakphu Phalut area. Sunrise and Sunset of Sandakphu are world famous. Mt. Kanchenjunga appears to be standing tall face to face as you move towards Sandakphu. The landscapes of this region after Sandakphu vary completely with one km. The aura changes from muddy mountains to snow clad forest. It is such a treat being up there amid the mountains. The people, culture, their way of living, economic condition and their mountain life, make this route extraordinary.

Somewhere on Sandakphu-Phalut Route

Seasons to Travel:

There are two great seasons to visit the park.

Spring (i.e. from March until May) when the flowers like rhododendrons and orchids bloom in full, and then again after the monsoon is over (i.e. between October and early December) when the snow peaks show in their dazzling beauty in a clear blue sky.

Things to carry:

·         The entire stretch is notorious for unpredictable rains so do carry rain jackets.

·         There is no electricity in the guest house at night. So carrying a torch is a must.

Note: 

• The park usually remains closed during the monsoon (between Mid-June to Mid-September). 
• The entire trail is bumpy and graveled. Plan to leave as early as possible from Manebhanjyang (no later than 1 PM).
• There is limited number of guest houses at Sandakphu. Prefer to book room in advance during peak season. 
• Shared taxis are available for Manebhanjyang from Darjeeling bus stand.
• Land Rover can accommodate 8 people. You can go to the stand and share with other travelers.

Have you been to Sandakphu? 

If yes, then share your experience.